Milan Fashion Week 2024: Diesel Show Review
Glenn Martins presented his 2024 collection for Diesel since his takeover in 2020 he has completely revolutionized the brand's image in popular culture. He seems to have his finger on the pulse of what is the future of the fashion industry of this generation. Martins knows what the people want to see. In my personal opinion, Glenn is for the people. He listens and makes it a point that his collections have a wide range of options for his clients. Compared to some of the other luxury houses that foolishly create garments that only appeal to the uptight and ridged closets of the 1-2% of the rich and fabulous, Glenn has his ears to the streets.
He takes note of the resurgences of the late 90s and early 2000s trends that have a huge surge of popularity that is dominating our current fashion culture. Similar to its rise in its Renaissance in the early naughts that embraced incorporating feminine, sexually empowered silhouettes with a sense of raw edge. This should be the blueprint for any hot designer who not only wants to sell garments but also creates art of the time that will resonate with people for generations to come. Now just because I personally dig a specific time period in fashion doesn’t mean that everyone will.
That’s the beauty of variety and modernization. The best example of this would be Stella McCartney SS 2023, where McCartney reimagined her previous design aesthetics from her time at Chloe, but with a more modernized take on what is more accepted by the greater society. Her use & mix of asymmetrical silhouettes accessorized with fishnets, low-rise motifs with oversized blazers, and wide-leg trousers built a bridge between what is trendy and what the modern woman who has the money to drop at Stella McCartney is currently into.
When analyzing Glenn’s most recent collection for the house, I found some of the graphics, designs, and extreme logo branding to be a little too on the nose of being marketed to a Gen Z demographic. I.e., the ostentatious spelling of Diesel on jackets and shirts in addition to the film posters to fit the template of jackets. The movie posters that were reconstructed into garments come off to me as easy cash grabs. However, the overall show had something for everyone - opening with chic distressed mini & full-length dresses along with strong, reimagined denim streetwear garments distressed to perfection. Denim garments with distressed rouched motifs follow. Utility accents on skirts, tops, and trousers make for an ever-evolving timeline of Glenn’s creative artistry.
As the show progresses, edgy, sexy, logo-embellished leather garments emerge along with denim in grunge washes. There was no shying away from apparel in colors such as muted & shocking yellow, shocking blue, and vibrant & muted shades of pink in addition to the classic house code color of cherry red, which gives that effortlessly cool individual vibe. This was followed by distressed and reconstructed dresses and designs fluttering down the runway. The menswear of the collection stayed pretty cohesive throughout the collection, with an overall fixation on street-style aesthetics and very oversized and ostentatious silhouettes. However, the womenswear covers everything from edgy street style to provocative, sexy silhouettes with sprinkles of glamour and femininity.
Saucy bra and thong dresses leave nothing to the imagination as they slink down the runway. As the show comes to a close the party really begins. Satin and nude illusion gowns steal the show leaving the audience in awe with the incorporation of the ever-so-iconic segment with metallic body paint on the models. A staple segment of Martins since his takeover in 2020. The collection closes with classic Hollywood-style gowns with hooded silhouettes - one of the fashion industry’s favorite trends right now.
Speaking of future trends, it is important to mention that model, Alex Consani sports a pair of sexy metallic low-rise skinny jeans in the show that she is so chicly owning. I can’t help but wonder if next season we will see the return of the skinny jean. A.K.A., my greatest fear, lol. I predict that this small snippet was only the beginning of their resurgence since I am already seeing fast fashion brands such as I AM GIA promoting the design.
In conclusion, Glenn Martins rocks. He’s a revolutionary designer with an exquisite eye for what is current in fashion. All the while still building a path for the future with his designs. Simply put, Martins creates wearable art that people want to buy, period. The collection had a wide range of choices for the Diesel customer. 10/10 collection. Check out some of my favorite looks, along with the designs mentioned above from the show below.
Xoxo Dessy